Two weeks ago, my husband Terry and I got in our car and traveled five hours northwest from our village in the Alentejo to the Douro Valley, one of the oldest wine regions in the world. After ten months in lock down last year, the freedom to travel around Portugal seemed almost too good to be true. But in a country where 85% of the population is now vaccinated, where people don’t complain about wearing masks or keeping their distance, it’s a lot easier to feel safe outside, now. Safe enough to travel.
As always on our trips together, it’s Terry at the wheel, confidently speeding along impossibly steep, narrow mountain roads, while negotiating blind curves and hairpin turns and me in the passenger seat nervously wondering how dizzy or carsick I’ll get. But for this trip to the Douro, I cleverly remembered my Dramamine and was able to spend the (albeit sometimes harrowing) drive drowsy and relaxed. Not drowsy enough however to miss the spectacular scenery—terraced vineyards, orange groves, olive plantations – for which the Douro is famous. The kind of beauty that takes your breath away.
Relaxed as I was, I was still glad to settle in to our lovely B&B amid the vineyards before we set off again to the town of Peso da Régua, to visit the Douro Museum where I learned more than I could imagine about the making of port wine. I learned that the Douro represents about half of the world’s mountain viticulture. Just over 30,000 wine growers cultivate some 100,000 acres of land. In this valley, people were making wine well before the arrival of the Romans. Between the late 18th and early 19th century, over 30,000 Galician Portuguese laborers built walls, pruned and grafted vines and harvested grapes. Hard labor and human sweat define port wine making.
At a bend in the Douro river is the charming–-if shabby–little town of Pinhão, where we spent a happy hour lunching with local truck drivers and winery workers, eating our polvo and porco, French fries and rice, while everyone laughed and shouted to one another across the room. Afterwards, I grabbed my camera and walked along the town’s main street where most of the buildings are dilapidated and abandoned. It made me sad and sorry for the town, but I snapped pictures like crazy and, spectacular as the vineyards are, it’s the photos I took in Pinhão that are the most beautiful.
Just steps away from our B&B was the Infantado Winery. I hadn’t realized this when Terry booked our room, but I doubt this was coincidental. Infantado’s owner, 5th generation winemaker João Roseira, turned out to be one of Terry’s best friends from the 1990s when he was importing wine from Portugal to the U.S., and the Infantado winery was his old stomping ground. João and Terry hadn’t seen each other in twenty-five years and their reunion was a very happy event.
Growing up, I never understood people’s passion for wine. I like a glass of wine with dinner from time to time, but I just never got the wine tastings, the wine snobs, all that drinking. I never knew my husband as in importer of Portuguese wines. I knew him as a wood worker, a furniture maker, an artist, a fisherman. I didn’t share his interest in wine. Until this trip to the Douro, I hadn’t given Terry’s wine business a lot of thought. I had other things on my mind. Like writing a memoir about my life before Terry.
We spent our last night in the Douro with João, his wife Paula, and his cousin Álvaro. João is many things – a fine winemaker, a wonderful cook, a generous host with a genius for friendship. He has a big personality and a big heart. It was easy to see why Terry would speak so fondly of the wine business. Our trip to the Douro was a revelation to me as I watched my husband’s face light up when he and his old friend João recalled their years working together in Portugal decades ago, just as my face lights up when my old friend Marguerite and I recall our years working together in Africa decades ago–the work I’ve written about in my new book Expecting the World – Learning from Women in Left-Out Places
The Douro gave me more than stunning landscapes, charming towns, fascinating history,and delicious wine. It helped me understand my husband’s love for this country of his ancestors. It gave me a way in.
It’s so good to feel safe enough to travel.
i
t
t
What a fabulous and precious Portuguese connection you have. Makes me want to visit but we in NZ still under very harsh lockdown with borders still firmly shut. Good job you’re not here! Xx
And yet . . . New Zealand is just about the most beautiful country in the world, it seems to me. It’s awful that the pandemic is keeping people out. Even Kiwis like my daughter-in-law (who is married to my American son and has lived in the U.S. for many years now) is unable to return while covid is still making people sick. I just hope things improve there soon. We’d love to visit you thered again soon!
Lovely story Jerri, it sounds just beautiful and terry meeting up eith his old friend is such a happy time and chance for you to know Terry even morr. Well done both of you.
Thank you, Roseanne!! Both for reading my post and for your kind comment. It was a happy time. And I’ll be happy again when I can see you in New Zealand. Old friends are forever. Big hugs, Jerri
Olá Jerri
Linda viagem!
Já fiz isso tudo com o Guilherme mais no Outono,fiquei com saudades!
Ainda bem que gostaste!
Bjs grandes aos dois
Inês
Obrigada Inês! Nunca imaginei que o Douro fosse tão bonito. E a história é tão interessante. Mas há muito para aprender sobre teu país. E quero aprender o máximo que puder! Beijos grandes de nós dois.
Lovely Jerri,
You have had so many experiences and adventures, mixed with great work…..let me know what Portuguese wines you highly recommend!
Thank you, Lucy! Since I’m definitely NOT the wine expert in the family, I’ll check in with himself and let you know what he thinks!! I hope you are well and loving being back in Maine again. What a beautiful place you live!
Okay . . . so just talked to Terry. He recommends importer Evaton, Inc.
Silk & Spice (Red)
Casa Ferreirinha (reds are all good) and
Gazela (light white, vinho verde)
And they are sold in Maine!!
Hugs!
Silk & Spice is one of my favorites and is in my wine rack right now!
I’ll tell Terry!!
Sitting in my desk on a grey Chicago day as the wind is howling and it’s pouring cold October rain, I am transported to beautiful Portuguese wine country and smiling. Big hugs to you and Terry, my friend!
And yet . . . I feel homesick for Chicago!! Well, maybe I feel homesick for you, Alison, after all this time. Maybe I need to do a reading from “Expecting the World” at the Newberry!! (or maybe somewhere else??) I’d love an excuse to take the train from Cumberland and visit. Or – alternatively – you could come to Portugal!
I’m so glad you and Terry get to explore Portugal again. Your photos are great. The one of Terry and his friend could be a fine painting with the various shades of browns and neutral colors. Their happiness shines through.
Cheers,
Kate
PS How do we say “cheers” in Portuguese?
“Saúde!” (Remember when Cheers was Millie Marie’s first real word??)
Thank you for your good wishes and kind words. I’m having a lot of fun as the “observer with the camera”. And yes . . . much happiness! Thinking of you and The Big Move this week. Fingers crossed it all goes without a hitch. Abrazos
Jerri,
What a great recap of your latest adventure with Terry in Portugal. It looks absolutely wonderful; and the warmth and hospitality sounded even better!
Pat
Thanks, Pat! I just read Frank’s description of your trip and oh my! how wonderful that was. Eager to talk to you about it when we get home in December. We miss you!!
I enjoyed reading of your travels to Douro, but can’t imagine my husband driving those curling roads. I’d be squealing, my knuckles white, clutching on for dear life. You are clearly a fine photographer, the images quite lovely. I wish now, that Kerry and I had travelled further than the Porto region when in Portugal. We loved the place so much and always planned to return.
White knuckles is right! But I’ve experienced it before, when we were in Corsica, for example. And the south of France. And New Zealand, as well!
I do hope you return to Portugal. It really is a splendid place. We live in the Alto Alentejo – fifteen minutes from Spain — and a perfect place like retirees who aren’t too interested in nightlife! But I’m looking forward to spending time in Porto (where I’ve never been) possibly as early as next month. Thank you again for reading, Vivienne!
Jerri – Great pictures of beautiful country. So glad Terry got to reconnect and you got to see into his past. It all sounds so wonderful. So much better than having to think about the schmucks who think we should become part of WV!!
Thank you Betsey! It would be so good to have you and Doug here taking pictures with me! No, I can even fathom what it must be like in Allegany and Garrett counties right now. It is with no small concern I anticipate being there in the current climate. (I hope you are getting to NYC a bit???? Staying sane can’t be without its challenges right now. Big hugs, Jerri
Jerri, je suis trop contente de la rencontre de Terri avec son vieil ami Joao! Sûr, ça a été le point culminant de ce voyage qui aurait dû être une belle promenade parmi les vignobles du Duro. Retrouver des racines portugaises, inattendues, de ton mari, va, si c’était nécessaire, faciliter ton insertion au Portugal!
Je vous embrasse très fort, tous les deux.
Merci, Minou!! J’apprecie énormément tes commentaires. Et a bien tôt!!
Beautiful country and I love your travelogues and photography!
xxoo
Ann
Thank you so much, Annie! It is indeed a beautiful country and it is so much fun — after being in lock down most of last year — to begin to see some of it! And I’m enjoying taking pictures in a way I never imagined. Be well and big hugs, Jerri
At last, here I am commenting on your Travel piece! I loved reading the reunion story about Terry and his wine business compatriot. Altho you didn’t mention it, the story, I know, has many dimensions. Wonderful to have it placed in context, with glorious images of all that surrounds it.
Thank you, Lois! Yes many dimensions indeed. And oh what glorious country. Can’t wait to go back. Maybe you and Eric can join us next time???
Thank you for this piece. I love visiting shabby photogenic towns. I was right there with you.
I’m so glad, Patricia! That’s what I’m hoping to do with this blog . . . take people with me wherever I go!!!
Jerri, bonjour!
Quelle belle description vous faites du Douro. Je suis très fière de mon petit pays – Portugal – et moi aussi j’adore le Douro!
Et vous avez fait une très belle description, belle et vraie.
Un paysage magnifique, un bon repas, un bon vin, des amis anciens comme nous, quoi de mieux peut-on avoir dans la vie?
A bientôt, à Marvão ou à Lisbonne!
Chère Bela,
Je suis tellement heureuse de t’entendre. Oui, le voyage dans le Douro était magnifique. Et voir le vieil ami de Terry l’a rendu encore plus. Je suis heureuse de penser que ma description était exacte! Et j’adorerais vous voir avec Miguel à Marvao ou à Lisbonne !!
Merci pour ton gentil commentaire!
Gros bisous Jerri
Chère Jerri
Nous nous verrons a Lisbonne la semaine prochaine, le 15 pour l’ouverture de ma exposition de peinture, je vais vous écrire un email aujourd’hui même.
Et aprês votre retour des EU nous irons vous visiter à Marvão, c’est promis!
Gros bisous
Bela
Chère Bela,
J’ai hâte de visiter ton exposition d’art la semaine prochaine à Lisbonne! Et je suis très heureuse que ce soit un”solo show”. Felicitations!! Je suis si heureuse te revoir Et si heureuse to revoir avant de partir pour les Etats-Unis. Aussi . . . j’ai hâte que vous veniez à Marvão nous voir en mars prochain !!
A très bientôt, Jerri